I got up in time for breakfast this morning and stayed up – I usually go back to sleep – to trek to Dois Rios on the other side of the Big Island.
I smiled as I walked, enjoying nature's opera. The knocking of bamboo as it necks high in the canopy; a constant rush of water creating a background static, like a bad frequency on a radio; other, nearby water trickling like a violin arpeggio; birds singing their appreciation for the day; and the wind conducting the tempo.
All contribute their beautiful song of life in perfect harmony, while monkeys and leaves dance around each other to the tune.
Lazy day
Today must be the 28th.
I'm losing track of the days - or dates, at least. I need to refer back into my diary for the odd date I've listed in order to keep some form of calendar reference.
I spent the first three to four hours of my day swinging in the hammock hanging outside the room of my pousada - reading, writing, reflecting, absorbing, registering and processing - under the high gaze of a coconut tree.
The long, narrow yard - of which I'm situated at the distant end - remains completely undisturbed from human presence. Sounds of laughter float through the air; occasional hammering greets me from over the neighborly fence; birds chirp and sing sweet melodies to each other in this tranquilo part of the world.
As I swing from side to side - pondering how my feet were able to attain such a deep stain of blackness which won't wash off - micro, soft birds hover in stand-still in the vibrant red tree beside me, sucking sweet nectar from their offerings, cross-pollinating and allowing the beauty of life to continue.
Two small birds speed past me in a dog-fight. More nectar is sucked. The circle of life continues.
Big Island
[Photos from Niteroi]
I'm in Ilha Grande (translation: Big Island). It's like a little paradise here. There are no banks, no cars, people are friendly, it's very safe and secure, and I have absolutely no reason to switch on my mobile phone. Today I trekked 2 hours to a beautiful beach on the other side on the island.
I swam in four different beaches along the way - all of them were spectacular. But the clouds were angry on my way back, so I ran through the forest and through the mountainous trail - one hour. I was a bit hot and sweaty when I got back so, although it was raining, I jumped into the beach to cool down. Soooo fresh.
I haven't had a chance to upload any photos of this place so I'm using some from my time in Niteroi and the beautiful Itacoatiara beach.
Yes, ladies. I know. Surfer guys!!!
Yes, fellas. I know. All bikinis in Brasil are like this. I think it's almost illegal for a woman to wear a bikini that covers any more of their butt.
The view of Rio from the Niteroi's Icarai Beach. It's a bit dirty, so noone really swims there, though the view is spectacular. See the faint outline of Cristo Redentor on the top right?
From the mountainous rock hanging over Itacoatiara beach.
I'm in Ilha Grande (translation: Big Island). It's like a little paradise here. There are no banks, no cars, people are friendly, it's very safe and secure, and I have absolutely no reason to switch on my mobile phone. Today I trekked 2 hours to a beautiful beach on the other side on the island.
I swam in four different beaches along the way - all of them were spectacular. But the clouds were angry on my way back, so I ran through the forest and through the mountainous trail - one hour. I was a bit hot and sweaty when I got back so, although it was raining, I jumped into the beach to cool down. Soooo fresh.
I haven't had a chance to upload any photos of this place so I'm using some from my time in Niteroi and the beautiful Itacoatiara beach.
Yes, ladies. I know. Surfer guys!!!
Yes, fellas. I know. All bikinis in Brasil are like this. I think it's almost illegal for a woman to wear a bikini that covers any more of their butt.
The view of Rio from the Niteroi's Icarai Beach. It's a bit dirty, so noone really swims there, though the view is spectacular. See the faint outline of Cristo Redentor on the top right?
From the mountainous rock hanging over Itacoatiara beach.
Escape to Niteroi
If you drive over the long, long bridge - or take the ferry from Praca XV - you will arrive in Niteroi. It is still technically Rio, but it has a completely different energy. Relaxed, calm and easy-going. And if you know where to go you can find some beautiful beaches with wonderfully roaring waves and blue water - actually blue!
Of particular note is the contemporary art museum designed by Oscar Niemeyer - the guy who was also responsible for designing the plan for Brasilia - the capital of Brasil - which is now a UNESCO Wolrd Heritage Site.
And from the beaches of Niteroi one can see the whole glorious city of Rio de Janeiro.
Learn Portuguese for free
We went into a salsa club at 5am. Salsa is not very popular in Brazil. I was sitting on a high stool, towering over a man lying asleep on the floor beside me - he was lying on his back with his head against the wall and his legs outstretched onto a near-vacant dance floor. After ten to fifteen minutes and signs of new light pouring in through the club's door, I decided to call it a night. Gonzalo walked me out. "We're going to share a cigarette before you leave," he told me. As he was lighting up our shoulders and arms were grabbed from behind and used for support.
She said her name was Veronica. But no sooner had she finished slurring the name off her intoxicated tongue did she reach into her amply filled bra to pull out an identity card with a completely different name. She was attractive, short and very well dressed in a red blouse, black skirt with slits down the side and modest jewellery on her fingers. If one looked at her face, and deep into her eyes, you could see age, but she looked amazing for what I guessed to be forty to forty-five. Gonzalo translated her rambles, "She was married to a German guy and she has five kids." "Wow!" I said.
"Capoeira!" She explained, adopting a fighting stance - illustrating that the Brazilian martial art is good for the figure. She began outlining her waist and pulled her skirt to the side to reveal her legs. She did look pretty damn good for her age.
Losing her balance, she sat down on a metal post that protects the sidewalk from the parking cars - a commentary on Brazilian driving perhaps? As we stood before her, she was apparently telling Gonzalo that I should learn to speak Portuguese. And so she took it upon herself to teach me my first word through demonstration... Caralho. And as she blurted the word she explosively reached forward and grabbed my testicles. Actually I believe she only managed to grasp my right testicle, and it felt as though her thumb and index finger had a confident grip on it as she squeezed it for a couple of seconds. "Caralho. Penis!" she explained.
I sat down beside her in a combined shock of disbelief and pain as she took my hand and placed it on the metal lamp -post beside us, which was buzzing with live electrical current. Though I left as soon as the gonadal pain - now travelling into my abdomen - subsided.
She said her name was Veronica. But no sooner had she finished slurring the name off her intoxicated tongue did she reach into her amply filled bra to pull out an identity card with a completely different name. She was attractive, short and very well dressed in a red blouse, black skirt with slits down the side and modest jewellery on her fingers. If one looked at her face, and deep into her eyes, you could see age, but she looked amazing for what I guessed to be forty to forty-five. Gonzalo translated her rambles, "She was married to a German guy and she has five kids." "Wow!" I said.
"Capoeira!" She explained, adopting a fighting stance - illustrating that the Brazilian martial art is good for the figure. She began outlining her waist and pulled her skirt to the side to reveal her legs. She did look pretty damn good for her age.
Losing her balance, she sat down on a metal post that protects the sidewalk from the parking cars - a commentary on Brazilian driving perhaps? As we stood before her, she was apparently telling Gonzalo that I should learn to speak Portuguese. And so she took it upon herself to teach me my first word through demonstration... Caralho. And as she blurted the word she explosively reached forward and grabbed my testicles. Actually I believe she only managed to grasp my right testicle, and it felt as though her thumb and index finger had a confident grip on it as she squeezed it for a couple of seconds. "Caralho. Penis!" she explained.
I sat down beside her in a combined shock of disbelief and pain as she took my hand and placed it on the metal lamp -post beside us, which was buzzing with live electrical current. Though I left as soon as the gonadal pain - now travelling into my abdomen - subsided.
Friday night continued + ellipsis
So I unexpectedly went to a friend's place on Friday after my 'accidental' invitation. There I made my first Caipirinha - a cocktail made of lime, cachaça (Brazilian sugarcane alcohol) and about half a cup of sugar. It was good! After that, Juliana, the girl I dialed by accident last night serve some carrot cake, with two separate layers of chocolate icing. LOTS of sugar. It was good!
It didn't take long before I crashed out on the sofa, suffering from a massive low which follows any sugar high. I woke up around 1.30am and headed back to Lapa, where I'm staying. Passing through the buzzing energy that swallows Lapa on a Friday I couldn't bring myself to go straight home so I got out of the mini-bus and decided to walk around. I decided to do a few of Lapa laps.
One vendor was selling a plate of beef fillet, onions and mashed potatoes. It smelled so great. I wasn't hungry but my salivary glands disagreed. As I walked past I told my them that I would surrender to their wishes if they were still excited the next time I passed. They were. I did.
Sitting down on a low plastic stool with knock-knees trying to balance my polystyrene square of buttery food while consoling my disappointed taste buds, I saw Gonzalo pass - my dear Chilean friend. I became close with him over the last few days and I'd thought we'd said our final goodbye. I threw up my hands in a giant V knowing that he would look over and see me through the thick traffic of bodies. He did. Our hearts shake hands in a warm embrace.
The power of the universe never ceases to amaze me. Had I been looking for Gonzalo I never would have found him. Gonzalo is staying in Niteroi - a 45 minute drive away. The chances of actually bumping into him were extremely minimal. We individually made thousands of choices and micro-choices that night - e.g. take this way, stop here, walk this fast, etc - with innumerable variables and possible outcomes, hence the chance of occupying the exact same place at the exact same moment in time was infinitely more unlikely. But the universe worked it's magic and united our like-energies, our shared frequencies once again.
Last week I was at a massive street parade in Copacabana. Sam had told me he would be there - among the tens of thousands of people - so at first I foolishly looked for him. I then thought, "This is ridiculous. If it is meant to be the universe will make it happen." So of course I wasn't surprised when we actually crossed paths.
It's possible that it was Gonzalo willing this non-coincidence, this non-accident - of me dialing the wrong number last night. Though... it could have also been the psycho woman we met a couple of hours later. To be continued...
It didn't take long before I crashed out on the sofa, suffering from a massive low which follows any sugar high. I woke up around 1.30am and headed back to Lapa, where I'm staying. Passing through the buzzing energy that swallows Lapa on a Friday I couldn't bring myself to go straight home so I got out of the mini-bus and decided to walk around. I decided to do a few of Lapa laps.
One vendor was selling a plate of beef fillet, onions and mashed potatoes. It smelled so great. I wasn't hungry but my salivary glands disagreed. As I walked past I told my them that I would surrender to their wishes if they were still excited the next time I passed. They were. I did.
Sitting down on a low plastic stool with knock-knees trying to balance my polystyrene square of buttery food while consoling my disappointed taste buds, I saw Gonzalo pass - my dear Chilean friend. I became close with him over the last few days and I'd thought we'd said our final goodbye. I threw up my hands in a giant V knowing that he would look over and see me through the thick traffic of bodies. He did. Our hearts shake hands in a warm embrace.
The power of the universe never ceases to amaze me. Had I been looking for Gonzalo I never would have found him. Gonzalo is staying in Niteroi - a 45 minute drive away. The chances of actually bumping into him were extremely minimal. We individually made thousands of choices and micro-choices that night - e.g. take this way, stop here, walk this fast, etc - with innumerable variables and possible outcomes, hence the chance of occupying the exact same place at the exact same moment in time was infinitely more unlikely. But the universe worked it's magic and united our like-energies, our shared frequencies once again.
Last week I was at a massive street parade in Copacabana. Sam had told me he would be there - among the tens of thousands of people - so at first I foolishly looked for him. I then thought, "This is ridiculous. If it is meant to be the universe will make it happen." So of course I wasn't surprised when we actually crossed paths.
It's possible that it was Gonzalo willing this non-coincidence, this non-accident - of me dialing the wrong number last night. Though... it could have also been the psycho woman we met a couple of hours later. To be continued...
Friday night in Rio
I have decided to move on in a few days. I'm ready to move on, though I just need to do a few housekeeping things before doing so: back-up photos, send some mail, farewell gathering, etc etc. So at this stage, I plan to head to Ilha Grande - an island in the state of Rio de Janeiro - on Wednesday.
Tonight, Friday night, is a big night in Lapa. Hordes of people descend onto the streets as human traffic. Walking the street is an experience in itself, with music pumping out of every other doorway, guys walking through the crowd selling diluted alcohol, people selling barbecued meat on the side of the street, and prostitutes - which, in Lapa, are mostly transsexuals - offering themselves as a different assortment of meat.
I was supposed to call a friend tonight to meet up for drinks, but I accidentally dialled someone else by accident and consequently got invited to her house for pre-going-out drinks with her friends. William S. Burroughs said, "In the magical universe there are no coincidences and there are no accidents. Nothing happens unless someone wills it to happen."
Let's see who this someone is.
Tonight, Friday night, is a big night in Lapa. Hordes of people descend onto the streets as human traffic. Walking the street is an experience in itself, with music pumping out of every other doorway, guys walking through the crowd selling diluted alcohol, people selling barbecued meat on the side of the street, and prostitutes - which, in Lapa, are mostly transsexuals - offering themselves as a different assortment of meat.
I was supposed to call a friend tonight to meet up for drinks, but I accidentally dialled someone else by accident and consequently got invited to her house for pre-going-out drinks with her friends. William S. Burroughs said, "In the magical universe there are no coincidences and there are no accidents. Nothing happens unless someone wills it to happen."
Let's see who this someone is.
Free Hugs - Rio de Janeiro
I organised a Free Hugs event for last Thursday in Rio de Janeiro. It was very short notice, and together with being on a weekday - and being a gringo organising an event in their home town - there weren't too many locals that were overly enthusiastic to join - actually none. Though there was one Brazilian girl from Belem who brought her beautiful energy a little while later.
For the first 45 minutes I was the only person hugging - 2 other people came but only watched. I still continued hugging, but it was slow. People were not very trusting, but I could see many people smiling as they walked past, which is still enough - this is still a success. Even if one happy thought enters someone's mind and they feel a little uplifted, and their psychology - and hence their body chemistry - changes slightly simply from seeing me then that is still a good result.
Then things began to pick up, and more people began to hug me. Eventually 4 other people came to help out and there was a good little energy in Largo da Carioca, in Lapa. Some women saw us from the23rd story of the building next to the square and came down especially for a hug. A man in a nearby shop took a break from his live, vocal advertising and started telling people to come over for a free hug. Later, a TV camera came from a news station and filmed me hugging. They asked, "Why are you doing this?" I said, "Why not? To spread love and happiness."
And since then I've had a few people recognise me on the street, and yell out "Abracos Gratis" as I pass them and then come over for a free hug - this includes people from local businesses and homeless people and people from the slums, i.e. the favelas. Everyone appreciates a good hug and a random exchange of positive energy.
Overall it was good, but I think the people of Rio are a little reserved and suspicious of strangers. They are a very warm people, and lovely people, but I guess the history of crime in Rio has made people very aware of strangers approaching them - no matter how pure their motives. Though many people smiled and laughed and appreciated the idea - even if they didn't hug - there were still a great number of people who avoided eye-contact and rushed by, eager to get past me. I felt like chasing after these people and forcing a hug onto them to show them there is much love in the world, and everyone is welcome to a share of it :)
Free Hugs puts both the hugger and the huggee into a vulnerable position, both submitting themselves to rejection. It challenges someone to step out of their comfort zone - into unknown territory - with the hope of being accepted. Hence, when that embrace does happen, the exchange of energy is so much more beautiful and rewarding. The change in a person's body and spirit is immeasurable - even if it may not seem apparent. Go out today, meet a random person and exchange a sincere free hug. Come on... help change the world!
Muitos abracos gratis to you all,
ara
Still here
I'm still in Rio. Though today I'm leaving to go to a small island (I think) that's less than an hour's drive away - there's a bridge. I'm going to stay there for a day or too, do some trekking, maybe have a swim.
I had my first swim in Rio yesterday. The weather was finally decent enough. The waves on Copacabana were monstrous, and gained momentum so suddenly and in such shallow water - repeatedly propelling me towards the beach and if it wanted to spit me out.
Last night I went to a favela 'Funk' party. This is Brasilian Funk, which means there was a lot of people - mostly women - who were gaining closer and closer proximity to the ground whilst pushing their ass out and shaking it in ways that salt shaker would be proud. I was writing down some of my observations and a girl took the napkin I was writing on and wrote down her phone number.
It was all very safe. I was on a tour and so there were many gringos. MANY gringos. So I generally left them and walked around all the so-called gangsters on my own to get a feel of what the energy of the place is really like. And I thought it was just a bunch of people having a good time. But this is my impression of ANY nightclub I've been to anywhere in the world. Anywhere I have been I have found them to be all the same. The only difference is the music, the appearance of the people, and sometimes the clothes. In this case it meant mostly topless man.
I couldn't appreciate an element of danger as many guys often stopped me and hugged me for no reason. But I think that's called ecstasy.
***
Sorry for those I haven't called for a while. I haven't Skype capabilities for some time now.
I had my first swim in Rio yesterday. The weather was finally decent enough. The waves on Copacabana were monstrous, and gained momentum so suddenly and in such shallow water - repeatedly propelling me towards the beach and if it wanted to spit me out.
Last night I went to a favela 'Funk' party. This is Brasilian Funk, which means there was a lot of people - mostly women - who were gaining closer and closer proximity to the ground whilst pushing their ass out and shaking it in ways that salt shaker would be proud. I was writing down some of my observations and a girl took the napkin I was writing on and wrote down her phone number.
It was all very safe. I was on a tour and so there were many gringos. MANY gringos. So I generally left them and walked around all the so-called gangsters on my own to get a feel of what the energy of the place is really like. And I thought it was just a bunch of people having a good time. But this is my impression of ANY nightclub I've been to anywhere in the world. Anywhere I have been I have found them to be all the same. The only difference is the music, the appearance of the people, and sometimes the clothes. In this case it meant mostly topless man.
I couldn't appreciate an element of danger as many guys often stopped me and hugged me for no reason. But I think that's called ecstasy.
***
Sorry for those I haven't called for a while. I haven't Skype capabilities for some time now.
January's River
Guess where I have been for the last week?
It's Rio de Janeiro!
Rio de Janeiro is an amazing place. It is simply over-flowing with energy. The people are friendly and always tend to be in high spirits. The whole city is sitting in the shadows of the favelas (the slums, or shanty-towns) but with the sun almost always high in the sky you don't often have to worry about being in a shadow.
This was my second day in town. At night I joined a group of people to go to Maracana... the famous Brazilian stadium. The stadium used to hold 200,000 people, but they were forced to put in seats and now it only has a capacity of 120,000. There are four teams in Rio. Flamenco is one of the most supported - and passionately supported. A friend told me, "Nintey-five percent of people living in the favelas support Flamengo. The other five percent don't like football."
Many years ago, black people were not allowed to play for Fluminense, and so Flamengo was founded - being the peoples' team. The games are meant to get very packed out by extremely passionate supporters.
I went to watch Fluminense play. Unfortunately it was raining, and therefore not very packed. The the die-hard fans still made it an awesome atmosphere. It was cool to be packed at the top of the stadium with them... trying to stay out of the rain.
It's Rio de Janeiro!
Rio de Janeiro is an amazing place. It is simply over-flowing with energy. The people are friendly and always tend to be in high spirits. The whole city is sitting in the shadows of the favelas (the slums, or shanty-towns) but with the sun almost always high in the sky you don't often have to worry about being in a shadow.
This was my second day in town. At night I joined a group of people to go to Maracana... the famous Brazilian stadium. The stadium used to hold 200,000 people, but they were forced to put in seats and now it only has a capacity of 120,000. There are four teams in Rio. Flamenco is one of the most supported - and passionately supported. A friend told me, "Nintey-five percent of people living in the favelas support Flamengo. The other five percent don't like football."
Many years ago, black people were not allowed to play for Fluminense, and so Flamengo was founded - being the peoples' team. The games are meant to get very packed out by extremely passionate supporters.
I went to watch Fluminense play. Unfortunately it was raining, and therefore not very packed. The the die-hard fans still made it an awesome atmosphere. It was cool to be packed at the top of the stadium with them... trying to stay out of the rain.
wee + oops = ouch
There is a wonderful natural waterslide in Lençois. There's loads of iron in the water, making it look all black and brown, so that when you swim in it you can barely see anything - and certainly not the bottom. It was so much fun, but because you are sliding down rock it really scratches your butt in places.
One should note that it is particularly slippery. Sam was standing up near the bottom so I stood up to speak to him face to face. Unfortunately I slipped - really badly. I landed on the side of my head. I believe the sound I heard inside my head was a mix between Chonk and a Slap.
In the split seconds during the fall I thought to myself, "Uh oh. This is not good." I think I must have hit my right shoulder first, because it was also hurting.
It wasn't funny. I could have fractured my skull, broken my neck or maybe worse had if I landed on a more jagged surface. On the other hand, it is funny :)
I got up out of the water - actually amazed that I was able to do so - and was intrigued by the fresh color of my blood dripping into the water. Sam said we'd better go immediately though I said it was a shame not to have another go on the slide. But he convinced me otherwise.
I went to the pharmacy to get some antiseptic and he said better go to the hospital. So here I am. I hardly waited at all. Maybe I got preferential treatment because I'm a gringo.
I told them I didn't want any anesthetic, but unfortunately the word impossible is the same in Portuguese.
Now that really did hurt. I could feel him literally shoving that needle under my scalp.
Note the blood on the tray and on the floor. Cool, huh?
All done. Only two stitches... dois puntos. And because it was a public hospital it was all FREE! Yay!!!
I then insisted on serving the doctor.
More fond memories from Guaramiranga
What can I say... they were good times :)
"We have gas"
MALE FEMALE
Ariane and Sam dancing to the live music on the tiny, tiny stage at the cute little theatre festival in this small village. Everything was small scale.
Singing the Sexual Improvisation Blues
These next two photos were actually in taken Taiba, where we three went to a beach party. So I still associate them with my best friends who I travelled to Guaramiranga with.
"We have gas"
MALE FEMALE
Ariane and Sam dancing to the live music on the tiny, tiny stage at the cute little theatre festival in this small village. Everything was small scale.
Singing the Sexual Improvisation Blues
These next two photos were actually in taken Taiba, where we three went to a beach party. So I still associate them with my best friends who I travelled to Guaramiranga with.
One fine day back in Guaramiranga
When we arrived we asked around if we could pitch our tent in someone's backyard. There we met a couple of other guys wit hthe same idea. They then took us for an hour's trek through a forest of palm trees and bananas trees, dwarfed by their massive trunks and leaves and giants to the infinite insects and birds whom lived within.
The glorious waterfall. And so was born our song, "Naked in the Sea" (sung to the tune of Sing, by Travis).
Sam reading Ariane's palm.
"Show me an angry tiger!"
Sam reading my palm
My fortune