If I thought there was nothing to do in GuaraqueƧaba, OH MY GODNESS was I in for a treat in Superagui. Everything was closed! I was lucky to find a place to stay - especially since the next boat off the island was in 2 days. I asked the owner my pousada (guest house) how many people live on this island and I watched her mental arithmetic as she arrived at an exact number: 625.

Small towns are great. You meet everyone on the main street - or in this case on the dirt trail between several houses - and say a friendly hello or opa, as it is here. But when you pass the same person 3 times in 10 minutes and say hello each time it starts getting a little weird.

In addition to having almost no accommodation, Superagui had almost no places serving food that were open - it really is low season. There was only place, and after peeking into the mostly black-and-brown kitchen I thought I'd take my chances with starvation.

Luckily I managed to convince the owner of the pousada to let me use her kitchen. And luckily I finished cooking before the electricity went out - and stayed out for the next 2 days.

More on this later.

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I'm back in Curitiba after eight days on the road.